Hilsa Paturi: Monsoon’s most relished dish - GetBengal story

With the rhythm of the monsoon, memories of Bengal’s most cherished fish, Ilish (Hilsa), come alive on the plate through timeless recipes. The hilsa catch in Bengal and Bangladesh reaches its peak as the skies get darker and the rivers rise. From Kolkata to Khulna, every Bengali family looks forward to this silver treat from the waters.

Many of us know Bhetki Paturi, which is often steamed in banana leaves and mustard paste. But there is a less well-known recipe across the border in Bangladesh that is the traditional Ilish Paturi, which wraps the queen of fish in the soft, earthy greens of Pui Saag (Malabar spinach) instead of banana leaves. This old, rustic recipe uses mustard and spices to give it a kick and pui leaves to give it a tangy and silky texture. The result is a layered, earthy taste that goes well with the rich, oily Hilsa. 

Unlike banana leaves, which are commonly used in Bengali paturi, pui saag imparts a subtle tang and a velvety texture. Its slightly slimy nature when cooked locks the spices and fish oils inside, making each bite layered and wholesome. 

The perfect Bengal monsoon on a plate is a steaming plate of rice and the aroma of spiced hilsa wrapped and fried in pui saag while it's drizzling outside.

Recipe

Ingredients (serves 4–5):
Fresh Hilsa (Ilish) – 1 kg (cut into medium pieces)
Onions – 2 cups, finely chopped
Green chilies – 5 to 7, slit (according to taste)
Mustard oil – ½ cup (for authentic flavour)
Ginger-garlic paste – 2 teaspoons
Turmeric (Haldi) – 1 teaspoon
Cumin paste – 1 teaspoon
Coriander powder – 1 teaspoon
Pui Saag (Malabar spinach) – large fresh leaves (as wrappers)
Salt – to taste

Preparation Method:
Clean and wash the Hilsa pieces gently and pat dry. Carefully clean the pui saag leaves. Choose broad, unbroken ones for easy wrapping. In a bowl, mix chopped onions, mustard oil, green chilies, ginger-garlic paste, turmeric, cumin paste, coriander powder, and salt. The pungent aroma of mustard oil and onions should dominate.

Now, Smear the spice mixture generously onto each hilsa piece. Allow them to rest for 15–20 minutes so the flavours seep in.

Place each fish piece on a pui leaf, fold neatly, and tie with a clean cotton thread or kitchen twine. This creates little green parcels of flavour.

Now, heat a flat pan on low flame. Put the wrapped parcels onto the pan and shallow fry them gradually, turning now and again. The leaves of the pui will get browned a bit, trapping the fish and spice juices in, releasing their own earthy flavour.

After cooking, untie the thread very carefully and serve with steaming white rice. The smell of mustard, hilsa oil, and greens gives it the soulful monsoon cuisine taste.

Serve Ilish Paturi with plain steamed rice or light ghee-bhat. A side of green chili and a wedge of lime can add to the experience.